Rototill the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. If you are renovating an existing lawn or if grass or broad-leafed weeds are present, use a suitable systemic herbicide (weed killer) such a glyphosate, and repeat the treatment as necessary before seeding. Try to match the texture of the soil on the site. Specify that the purchased topsoil be screened to eliminate weedy perennial grasses and stones. If available topsoil is not adequate to level the soil surface or provide an adequate root zone (at least 4 inches), additional topsoil can be purchased. Too great a slope may lead to erosion, difficulties in mowing and possible scalping. Normally, a fall of 1 foot every 50 feet will keep excess water from standing on the surface of the lawn. The final grade or slope of the lawn should be away from the building, and good surface drainage should be evident. The thickness of the topsoil should be uniform on slopes and in level areas alike. Remove stones, roots, large soil clods and other material. Spreading topsoil and final grading may be started once the soil is dry enough to be worked without sticking to implements or becoming compacted. After the building is complete, spread it evenly over the lawn area. Preparing the soil: When building a new home, keep your topsoil in a pile off to the side. Recommendations for liming and fertilizer will be returned to you along with the laboratory results. Combine the samples in a clean bucket and remove any plant parts present in the sample, mix well and send 1 cup of the mixture to: Soil and Plant Nutrient Laboratory, 81 Plant and Soil Sciences Building, Michigan State University, East Lansing, MI 48824. Start by taking several composite samples (at least eight), using a shovel or spade to cut 1-inch slices of soil from the surface to a depth of 4 inches from scattered parts of the proposed lawn area. These kits provide the necessary information on how to take soil samples properly and include a mailing container to forward the sample to the Michigan State University Soil and Plant Nutrient Laboratory. Soil test mailing kits may be obtained from your county Extension office for a nominal fee. Samples should be taken well before you want to seed. Soil testing: Soil testing is important to determine the nutrient status and pH of your soil. You won’t be able to carry out most of the following steps unless you know the size of your new lawn. Measuring: Accurately measure the area to be seeded. Weeds can quickly invade a newly seeded lawn that isn’t growing rapidly because of water stress. If you cannot water your lawn, do not seed your lawn in late spring or early summer. Adding extra organic matter to the soil before seeding, covering the seed with a little extra topsoil and protecting the seed with a seed cover such as straw mulch to conserve moisture will encourage the turf seedlings to grow. No matter what time of year you seed your lawn, you must frequently sprinkle lightly to keep the topsoil moist without creating puddles. Spring is the second best time to seed turf grass, beginning in late spring or early summer but no later than June 15. The warm days and cool nights are ideal for seed germination and seedling growth. The best time to seed your lawn is from August 15 to September 15. Timing: Late summer and early fall plantings produce the best results in Michigan. Your success in establishing your lawn depends on how well you prepare the site, choose the best seed varieties for your conditions and carry out each of the following steps: The disadvantage of hydroseeding is that the seed does not have complete contact with the soil and may dry out and die.ġ – Determine the time and method of establishment.Ħ – Incorporate fertilizer and lime (if needed). Because you don’t have to mix fertilizer in the soil or add mulch, there is less labor involved with hydroseeding than with the traditional method. Hydroseeding involves spraying (blowing) a combination of seed, water, fertilizer, lime (if needed), and mulch on a prepared lawn area. Hydroseeding is suited to sever slopes, which are susceptible to soil erosion. Weed invasion can be a problem, particularly in the spring.The optimum time for seeding is limited.Seed grown plants have stronger root systems initially.Less time is needed for job completion.Cost is less than hydroseeding if the homeowner does the work.The desired species or varieties can be used.Traditional seeding has several advantages: New lawns can be established using seed either by traditional seeding methods or by hydroseeding. Commonly, new lawns fail to become established because of poor quality seed, improper selection of turfgrass species or varieties, poor soil conditions, improper site preparation or lack of irrigation after seeding. Successful lawn establishment means doing the right thing at the right time.
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